I had been dying to return since my first trip in 2007 and upon learning that my Uncle - a photographer - was staying a few months on the Keralan coast I booked my flights! Excellent.

After a week I headed north to Varkala by train for a few days.  Subsequent to the British residing of India for some 300 years, hanging out the side of a train has become an integral part of Indian culture.

I passed my time in Varkala on the beach reading The Crimson Book of Pirates courtesy of my good chum Jon.  A century or two back there were lots of pirates and privateers around these sandy coves and of a moonlit night you can almost hear the sound of their oars fighting the current just beyond the beach...

Unfortunately all was not well in paradise.  I was due a shave and thus set out tentatively one morning to find a barbers.  The day started strangely when I got a free lift in a rickshaw - unheard of India.  Us white folk would generally be charged two or three times the going rate on the assumption we have loads o' cash.  Nevertheless, shaken but unperturbed, I ventured into the village barbershop where my new friend (soon to be enemy) Babu generously offered to shave me for 100 rupees.

Sometime later (I forget how long), having finally negotiated him down to a more reasonable (but still expensive) 30 rupees, I began to communicate with great animation that he was not, on any account, to go near my much prized - if underwhelming - moustache.

Needless to say he went at it like a man possessed, hacking and thrashing away at the left side (only) with a pair of old tailors scissors.  This horrifying response in a country where 99 percent of males over 12 have moustaches.  Ineveitably I was furious, though as a friend pointed out - perhaps he just didnt see it?

Oh well.  Back to Kovalam for a few more days to sulk.

Be back soon India, missin' ya already!!

Don't worry, I won't forget your postcard

Ghosts and Vodka stem from Cap'n Jazz, a highly influential Chicago-based early emo band active in the early nineties (listen to Oh Messy Life on Analphabetapolothology).

Sadly they split up all too soon, their entire catalogue collated on a single retrospective album. However, their being sowed the seed for several other great Chicago-scene bands to come and go over years - a couple of my other favourites are Owls and Joan of Arc.

I discovered Ghosts and Vodka quite organically in a journal about constructing communities through independent music subcultures in Chicago that I was reading as part of my research for my dissertation. I loved 'em from the start and listened loads when I was living in Canton, Cardiff.

Unusually for me (at least nowadays) it's entirely instrumental. But don't be scared! Dive in and have a listen to Andrea Loves Horses and It's All About Right Then:

For me it's all about the guitarist Victor Villarreal. His unique sound and style define everything he's involved with. Unfortunately he succumbed to the temptations of the rock 'n' roll lifestyle, which was probably partly responsible for the band splitting in 2001 (again their entire catalogue sitting comfortably on an appropriately-titled single album: Addicts and Drunks...)

From what I can gather, they never really achieved much outside Chicago. Heck, I guess that's part of the charm for me. Being in bands and making music is a great way to live your life, and these guys were doing it and being great at it.