Thus I have returned from India (via Dubai) slightly bronzed, slightly jetlagged.
I had been dying to return since my first trip in 2007 and upon learning that my Uncle - a photographer - was staying a few months on the Keralan coast I booked my flights! Excellent.
I spent most my time lazing about the cheery seaside resort of
Kovalam, daytripping into
Thiruvananthapuram, and laying low with the array of expats who would be staying as long as their visas allowed.
After a week I headed north to
Varkala by train for a few days. Subsequent to the British residing of India for some 300 years, hanging out the side of a train has become an integral part of Indian culture.
I passed my time in Varkala on the beach reading The Crimson Book of Pirates courtesy of my good chum
Jon. A century or two back there were lots of pirates and privateers around these sandy coves and of a moonlit night you can almost hear the sound of their oars fighting the current just beyond the beach...
Unfortunately all was not well in paradise. I was due a shave and thus set out tentatively one morning to find a barbers. The day started strangely when I got a free lift in a rickshaw - unheard of India. Us white folk would generally be charged two or three times the going rate on the assumption we have loads o' cash. Nevertheless, shaken but unperturbed, I ventured into the village barbershop where my new friend (soon to be enemy) Babu generously offered to shave me for 100 rupees.
Sometime later (I forget how long), having finally negotiated him down to a more reasonable (but still expensive) 30 rupees, I began to communicate with great animation that he was not, on any account, to go near my much prized - if underwhelming -
moustache.
Needless to say he went at it like a man possessed, hacking and thrashing away at the left side (only) with a pair of old tailors scissors. This horrifying response in a country where 99 percent of males over 12 have moustaches. Ineveitably I was furious, though as a friend pointed out - perhaps he just didnt see it?
Oh well. Back to Kovalam for a few more days to sulk.
Be back soon India, missin' ya already!!
